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But in the hinterlands of Portage Park, 10-month-old Community Tavern, sibling of The Portage, is doing the downtown chop houses one better with high quality and relatively low prices. "We do our own charcuterie, our own dry-aging," said chef Joey Beato, who has cooked at the late Quince in Evanston and Green Zebra in West Town. I mean, you have to make money, obviously, but I don't want someone to have to pay for a steak." Do not skip the charcuterie plate; the components vary, but my sample — duck rillettes with pistachio, pork terrine with cranberry, chicken liver mousse and circles of toulouse sausage inlaid with foie gras — was a killer.
There are a couple of nice desserts — nothing special — but the dessert program is about to get a major upgrade when a new pastry chef (the name is being kept under wraps) joins the team.
The end of the year approaches, and we find ourselves with a folder full of places that we intended to evaluate (and we may get to some of these next year).
For now, here are capsule reviews (no star ratings yet) of places that caught our collective eye. They are inclusive one-biters, generally inexpensive — if one tastes bad, you're already on to the next toothpick.
Despite the 90-degree weather, Irby is dressed all in black.
Montaditos are open-faced toasts topped with delicately creamy scrambled eggs and salmon roe, or a top-notch chicken liver mousse with sherry-glazed pearl onions.
The real winners are the bocadillo sandwiches (hat tip goes to Evanston's Hewn bakery) filled with garlicked pork sausage and mustard, and the surprising standout, one stuffed with white corn meal-fried calamari and saffron aioli. Community Tavern Chicago has an abundance of steakhouses, but they cluster together, downtown and in River North, like members of the same wolf pack.
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“She’s the kind of writer you want to meet after reading her,” says her friend Claire Zulkey, a fellow Chicago writer who started inviting Irby to Funny Ha-Ha, her respected literary and comedy show, in 2010.